Okay.
I have a lot of recipes I want to share with you. I got little tips and things to make excellent food when you’re in a less-than-steallar kitchen in Richmond, VA. But before we go on our long and fruitful journey together, we gotta get something out of the way.
Take a look at your freezer. Now back at me. Now back at your freezer. I would guess you got some ice cubes chilling, a frozen pizza or two, maybe some thanksgiving turkey that you need to get rid of. What you don’t have in that freezer is the quintessential ingredient that can turn your cooking from “pretty good” to “holy shit, that’s good”. Here is what it looks like:
Yummy!
It may not look like much, but that’s bonafide veal stock, which is basically water that has been infused with the collagen and marrow of veal bones. Making stock might seem like a huge undertaking, but all you really need is a lazy Sunday to keep a pot simmering for eight to ten hours.
There are just as many ways to make stock as there are chefs, so it can seem a little daunting when trying to figure out how to go about picking a stock recipe. The French Laundry book has a recipe for stock that is insanely complicated, it makes Julia Childs look like Sandra Lee. The Les Halles cookbook by Bourdain has a solid chapter on stock-making, but when I followed his recipe for the first time my stock ended up watery. The real breakthough came from Michael Ruhlman’s book, Ratio, where he recommends a ratio of 3 parts bone and 2 parts water. This yielded the above stock, which has so much gellatnous goodness that it’s practically veal jello.
So here is the basic veal stock recipe:
3 pounds of veal bones.
6 oz can of tomato paste.
1 cup of flour
2 pounds of water.
1 pound of an equal mix of carrots, celery, and onion.
Start off by preheating your oven around 400. Throw the bones into a roasting pan, then add the tomato paste and sprinkle the flour evenly over the bones. Rub it all in with your hands, then roast those bones until they get nice and brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Then take your bones and put them in a large stockpot with 2 pounds of water. There should be about an inch of water above the bones, so add a little more if you got bones poking up.
Then simmer.
Get that scum out!
Simmer some more.
Simmer for about 6 to 8 hours, occasionally skimming the muck that floats to the top. Drop your veggies in, and let it simmer for another 2 hours. Strain your stock through a cheesecloth and/or chinoise, and refrigerate overnight. When morning comes, run to your kitchen to see the magical transformation that happened, as the murky water has now transformed into beautiful, gellatnous veal stock!
You can freeze your stock, where it will hang in suspended animation for eternity until it’s thawed, but be sure to wrap it in plastic to prevent odors leaking into it. Julia Childs has a fun suggestion: Freeze your stock in ice cube trays so you have a handy pre-measured portion that you can easily drop into soups and sauces to give it that extra kick. You could also make veal stock pops. Yum!